Waterloo hides an underground arts venue beneath its platforms, a graffiti tunnel under its railway arches, and Salvador Dalí’s tarot deck inside County Hall, all a short walk from Britain’s busiest station.
Most people only know Waterloo as somewhere they change trains or catch the London Eye queue from a distance. Fair enough, on the surface it’s mostly commuters and coach parties. But duck under the station, into the tunnels beneath the platforms or the arches running off Leake Street, and the area turns considerably stranger and more interesting than its postcard attractions suggest.
It sits right on the edge of the South Bank, so a lot of what’s worth doing spills into that neighbouring stretch of riverfront too. We’ve tried to keep this to the things that are properly, specifically Waterloo’s own.
The best things to do in Waterloo
Go underground at The Vaults
Beneath the unassuming platforms of Waterloo Station sits The Vaults, an alternative arts venue built into a warren of underground tunnels. Expect a mix of neon and graffiti, a world away from the concrete above, and a programme that runs from secret jazz nights to performances from independent theatre groups. It’s the kind of place you have to see to properly believe.
Go round on the London Eye
It might be an obvious choice, but the London Eye earns its place. A slow rotation in one of its capsules gives a new perspective on the city from high above the South Bank, and it remains one of those London things worth doing at least once, cliché or not.
Wander along Southbank
The stretch along Southbank near Waterloo is packed with things to do, from tourist attractions to street food stalls and independent shops. It’s particularly worth visiting at Christmas, when the market here tends to be quieter than bigger rivals like Winter Wonderland.
Catch a classic at The Old Vic Theatre
The Old Vic, on the corner of the Cut, has been staging entertainment for generations, with a programme that ranges from smaller independent productions to much-loved classics such as A Christmas Carol and Into the Woods.
Picnic in Jubilee Park and Gardens
Overlooked by the London Eye, Jubilee Park and Gardens is a quieter corner among London’s parks, and a good spot for a picnic before a stroll along Southbank. It’s not a place you’d travel across town for, but it’s a genuinely pleasant stop if you’re already in the area.
Get lost in the Leake Street graffiti tunnel
Running under the railway arches, the Leake Street tunnel is covered floor to ceiling in some of the best legal graffiti in London, part of a much wider scene we’ve rounded up in our guide to the best street art in London. Inside you’ll also find street food stalls, cafes and bars tucked among the murals, so it’s an easy one to fold into an evening out rather than just a quick photo stop.
Escape the rain at the Sea Life Centre
The Sea Life Centre, just along from the London Eye, is a rare chance to see marine life in central London. It’s a reliable way to spend an afternoon with children, and a useful backup plan on a rainy day, which in this part of London is worth having in your back pocket.
Spot the clock at Waterloo Station
It’s hard to visit the area without passing through Waterloo Station itself, the UK’s busiest and largest, steeped in more than a century of history. Look out for the clock at its centre, familiar to fans of Only Fools and Horses and The Bourne Ultimatum alike.
Worth knowing: it’s best visited outside rush hour, when the crowds thin out enough to actually appreciate it rather than just fight your way through it.
Look for Dalí’s tarot deck at County Hall
The Dalí Universe, previously housed at County Hall, held a permanent collection of works by Salvador Dalí, gathered over a lifetime by collector Beniamino Levi, with paintings including L’Œil Fleuri and Spellbound sitting alongside sculptures, furniture and Dalí’s own hand-painted tarot deck.
Worth knowing: the original County Hall exhibition closed some years back, and reports of exactly what’s on display at County Hall under the Dalí Universe name today are mixed. Check what’s currently running before you make a special trip for it.
Watch a film at the BFI Imax
The drum-shaped building on the Waterloo Bridge roundabout is the BFI Imax, home to the largest cinema screen in Britain, roughly the height of four double-decker buses stacked on top of each other. The programme mostly sticks to new releases, with the occasional older screening thrown in.
Step back in time on Roupell Street
Just around the corner from the station, Roupell Street is a conservation area that has kept its snapshot of nineteenth-century London intact, terraced housing and all, which is why it turns up so often as a film set. There’s not a great deal to do beyond taking in the streets themselves, though the local pub, The King’s Arms, is worth a stop for a quiet pint.
Browse the shops at Gabriel’s Wharf
A ten-minute walk from the station towards Southbank, Gabriel’s Wharf has a cluster of independent shops, cafes and restaurants with a laid-back, almost Brooklyn feel, making it a good spot for an afternoon of browsing and people-watching.
Eat pierogi at Mamuśka
Mamuśka is Waterloo’s Polish restaurant, recently relocated to considerably bigger premises. The menu runs through hearty stews, pierogi and sausages the length of your arm, best washed down with a Polish beer, and the staff, many of them Polish themselves, are happy to talk you through the menu.
Book ahead for Tonight Josephine
For cocktails, Tonight Josephine is the pick of the area, a small, pink-hued bar built around good drinks and a strong sense of style. It gets busy, so booking ahead is worth doing rather than turning up and hoping.
Get messy at Jerk in da Park
Jerk in da Park is a street food stall set up in Waterloo’s Millennium Green, near the playground, serving jerk chicken, rice and peas, oxtail and other Caribbean staples alongside homemade juice. The menu changes regularly, but the quality doesn’t.
Take in the view at what’s now Circe’s Rooftop
Bar Elba, themed loosely around Napoleon, used to be the rooftop bar in this spot, known for good views over the city and a well-made hibiscus margarita, plus regular outdoor cinema nights under the sky.
Worth knowing: Bar Elba has since been replaced at the same Waterloo Road address by Circe’s Rooftop, a Greek-inspired bar and restaurant. The rooftop views remain the draw, even if the name and menu have changed.
Share plates at Cubana
Cubana is one of the better places to eat in Waterloo, with a fun interior and a strong menu of tapas, seafood and cocktails. Sharing plates of tapas is the way to go here, alongside classic mojitos and rum cocktails, and live music nights add to the atmosphere.
Order the pretzel at Waterloo Tap
Waterloo Tap keeps 21 keg beers and five cask ales on rotation, spanning classic and craft styles, with cider available for anyone who prefers it. The soft baked Bavarian pretzel, served with mustard, is a rare example of a bar snack worth ordering in its own right.
Book the view at Skylon
Skylon offers fine dining with unobstructed views over the Thames, its dining room mixing modern design with 1950s touches. Three courses cost around £32, reasonable for central London, with dishes such as pan-fried chalk stream trout and burnt Cambridge cream on the menu, alongside a well-regarded brunch.
